Quote:
Originally Posted by Beverly
My next pizza cooking experiment is to perfect Neapolitan thin crust pizza, which traditionally is cooked in an 800 degree or hotter oven in only a couple minutes. A pizza stone in a home oven can’t do it.
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I would be very surprised if Batali's method produces a pie even vaguely like my target, which is Wooster Square pizza as exemplified by Pepe's and Sally's in New Haven, or Totonno's in NYC. (I have never been to Italy so I don't know what Neapolitan pies are traditionally like.) Jeff Varasano, however, has perfected and documented a technique which very closely duplicates the Wooster Square style at home.
http://jvpizza.sliceny.com/
Many home ovens can easily reach the temperatures needed to cook a Neapolitan pie in three or four minutes. My old gas oven had only a lower element and didn't cycle to maintain the temperature; it adjusted the oven element flame size just like the top elements. When you set it to "broil" (most people don't understand that they can turn the knob past "550") it ran continuously, which is how a broiler is supposed to work. So after a few hours of preheating you could cook a pie in 4 minutes, and after more preheating you could burn the bottom of a pie before the top was cooked.
My new oven cycles even when set to broil, but fortunately it's cheap enough that simply bypassing the thermostat knob with a jumper wire makes it run continuously. It doesn't get anywhere near as hot as the old oven (which got hot enough that my eyeballs hurt when I opened the door) but it can still make satisfactory pies.
With many other ovens, you'll need to bypass the self-clean cycle "safety" interlocks, as described in Varasano's wonderfully thorough and detailed post on homemade pizza. Jeff, whom I've never met, but I could certainly justify a trip to Atlanta to sample his work, has gotten ALL the details right that *I* know about, and I've been making thin crust pizza pretty much every night for the better part of five years now. I haven't tried the sourdough/poolish method, but everything else is exactly on target; he's even solved problems like how to keep the stone cooler than the air in the oven above it.
There's NO reason to compromise on homemade pizza if you don't have to, and there's almost no chance you have to.
~ Kiran